Lashing Different Eye Shapes

As lash artists, it is important that we choose the right lash mapping and style to suit each of our clients and their unique characteristics. Most lengths and curls will have a completely different look depending on each person’s natural appearance. A set that looks beautiful and lifted on one set of eyes could make another look droopy or tired, making it crucial for us to design maps accordingly. Understanding the different eye shapes can help you choose the perfect mappings for your clients, helping them feel confident and obsessed with their lash extensions. Follow along to master your lash artistry as we delve into the various eye shapes and how to complement them best. Your clients will thank you!

Emphasis Areas

Some clients may require extra attention or correction to certain areas of their eye. This area is commonly referred to as the ‘Emphasis Area’ in the lash industry. Usually, this will be the largest section of our mapping and is intended to enhance the client’s natural eye shape. 

Consulting With Your Clients 

Although we are learning about how to enhance certain eye shapes and lessen attention to areas that may generally be perceived as negative, you may come across a client that doesn't want to change the shape or look of their eyes, and instead enhance the features they naturally have. Be sure to consult with each client before every lash service to determine what type of enhancements they expect out of the lash service, as it is ultimately their decision. A great question to ask during consultation when determining whether or not correction is necessary is: “What do you like and dislike about your eyes currently?” If the client says they aren’t sure, this usually means it is up to you to create something to complement them. If the client shares that they dislike something about their eyes, you now have an ‘Emphasis Area’ to focus on.

Almond Eye Shape

• Any mapping will be suitable 
• Direct lashes up on the outer corner to avoid drooping 
• Outer corner often needs extra attention 
• Drop down lengths drastically or bump up curl on the outer corners to prevent drooping 
• Emphasis area: depends on style and map you use 

Round Eye Shape

• Complemented with short lengths 
• May want to elongate the appearance of this eye shape 
• Shorter lengths are usually more suitable 
• Squirrel mapping is a great option 
• Straight curls are often more suitable 
• Emphasis area: nearing outer corner of eye, excluding weak outer lashes 

Narrow Eyes

• Usually want to give the eyes a more open appearance 
• Open Eye, Doll Eye, and Squirrel eye are good options
• M, L, CC, B, D are all suitable curls 
• Emphasis area: middle of the eye 

Downturned Eyes

• Hardest eye shape to correct 
• Longer lengths and more extreme curls like CC, D, M, L where outer ‘droop’ begins 
• For inner corners or ‘lifted’ areas of the eye, use B or C curl in much shorter lengths to avoid drawing attention 
• Modified squirrel mapping is best 
• Use short lashes on the outer corners 
• Make sure to direct upward while placing the lashes on the outer corner to avoid drooping the eye 
• Emphasis area: middle to outer corner of the eye

Upturned Eyes

• Suitable for any style, Cat Eye in particular 
• Any curl will match 
• This eye shape is ideal for lashing
• Emphasis area: not applicable to this eye shape 

Close Set Eyes 

• This eye shape can be complemented by using longer lengths towards the outer corners 
• Squirrel or Cat Eye mapping is usually best 
• Emphasis area: nearing the outer corner of the eye, excluding weak outer lashes 

*To determine if the client's eyes are ‘close set,’ measure the width of one eye and the space between their eyes. If the space between the eyes is less than the width of the eye, the eyes are close set.

Wide Set Eyes

• Direct the extensions upward and be sure to lash all the inner corners for this eye shape 
• Doll mapping or Open Eye mapping is best 
• Emphasis area: middle of the eye 

*To determine if the client's eyes are ‘wide set,’ measure the width of one eye and the space between their eyes. If the space between the eyes is greater than the width of the eye, the eyes are wide set.

As each person has unique physical qualities, it isn’t possible to teach you how to perfectly style every client without physically attending consultation. The guidelines outlined through this blog will help you combine this knowledge with your own creative vision to design the perfect lash set for each of your clients. We highly encourage you to try new styles and go outside of your comfort zone. Remember - there are no mistakes here, as each set you create will only help your lash artistry grow!